Yesterday’s bint Hazine rehearsal made me even more excited about upcoming performances especially the State Fair with Dancers of DeNile! All three songs look amazing and I am increasingly impressed with the growth of so many of the new dancers. I still think Last Kiss is my favorite, which is out of character for my tastes since I am usually much more of a fast and peppy music fan. I love the fluidity. When I performed the song as a solo the first time the best compliment was that it “gave me chills”. As a troupe dance, watching it gives me chills!
I was excited to see the ladies step into another phase of bellydance performance on Monday evening too. We needed something more professional than yoga pants for the State Fair performance and for future events more than just the Next Coffee stage. Harem pants are a primary piece to most styles of bellydance costuming and they are very simple to make. Beyond learning the dance steps and understanding music, I feel that dancers looking to be on the stage should understand basic costume construction. Buying costumes prêt-a-porte is often a far greater expense than a beginner is willing or able to expend, learning to make basic costume pieces is priceless.
Basic harem pant patterns can be found online very easily. My favorite method is four cuts and four runs through the machine!
Basic Harem Pants
Measurements:
Hip to Ankle, plus 2 inches
Crotch to Ankle, plus 1 inch
Hip circumference
Ankle circumference
Materials:
Approx. 2.5 yards 45 or 60 width Light weight fabric (We used chiffon)
Approx. 1.25 yards .25 - .5 inch elastic
Cotton thread
Scissors
Tape measure/ ruler
Chalk
The width of your harem pant legs will depend on your fabric width. I love huge balloon like pants so I typically aim for 60 width fabric. Some materials are finicky to sew, so be aware if you are new to sewing. Silks and satins may look very lovely but are equally tricky to work with.
1. Smooth out any folds or wrinkles in your fabric before cutting. Be sure your edges are straight, trim if you have to. Harem pants are very forgiving but it helps to be as accurate as possible.
2. Fold fabric in half the long way and be certain to match edges before cutting.
3. Measure the full length of your pant leg using the Hip to Ankle measurement, remember to add two inches to your actual body measurement. (example: My hip to ankle is 32 inches. I add 2 inches, so my final fabric length should be 34 inches.)
4. CUT – cut straight across the width of the fabric.
5. Measure your inseam, from crotch to ankle. Add one inch to actual body measurement. (example: Inseam on me is 22 inches, plus one, equals 23 inches.) This measurement is typically 9 inches less than your outer leg measurement. Remember that number.
6. Making sure your fabric is still folded the long way and all edges are straight; measure from the base of the pant up using the inseam number. Mark with chalk.
a. For closed leg pants:
i. Measure 2 inches in from the open edge. Mark with chalk a half “U” shape from the edge, then two inches in, and straight to the top of the pant.
ii. CUT out the half “U” shape.
b. For open leg pants:
i. Measure 2 inches in from the fold. Mark with chalk a half “U” shape from the fold, then two inches in, and straight to the top of the pant.
ii. CUT out the half “U” shape.
7. Repeat steps 1 – 4 to create the second leg.
Now for the sewing!
1. Unfold pants and smooth any wrinkles. Lay both leg pieces together with pattern (pretty) side facing one another. Match crotch openings and pin.
2. SEW crotch with narrow zig-zag stitch. Remember to secure ends b. Remember to secure ends backing over stitching. For fabric that may fray easy or tear (or if you do a lot of crazy floor work and splits) flatten seam open and zig-zag stitch to reinforce.
3. Fold top edge of pants to create 1 inch casing for elastic. Remember to roll raw edge under enough to hem inside casing. Pin.
4. SEW along bottom edge of casing, be sure not to shrink your casing by sewing too close to the top edge.
5. Leg options
a. For closed leg pants:
i. Align inseams and pin. SEW .25 inch seam. For fabric that may fray easy or tear flatten seam open and zig-zag stitch to reinforce.
b. For open leg pants:
i. SEW hem along all raw edges.
6. Repeat step four to create ankle casings.
Now to thread the elastic! Elastic should fit comfortably around hip and ankles. Measure and pin before cutting. Once you are satisfied with the fit of your harem pants be sure to sew ends together securely.
I hope this helps beginning bellydancers create a fun, essential piece to their costumes.
Check out bint Hazine on November 5th, 2011 at 11:00AM, dancing with Dancers of DeNile at the Arizona State Fair, to see the harem pants made from these instructions.
